round the clock.

Just in time for summer, I think this wintry vegan comfort food recipe is finally "solved". And as is often the case, the solution is to remove everything except the star ingredients, which are: the tempeh, marinated for 3 hours, with either soy or tamari as the salty element; the ruby slaw, made the day before; the potatoes, either meticulously mashed or crushed lazily; and some version of the gravy...in the end not a sandwich at all but much more of a vegan stamppot.



ai ai ai que calor.

In conjunction with a very brief return visit to Ronda, there's a general tour of tropically hot (42°C/108°F in Sevilla this week) southern Spain planned as well as an excursion into the heart of European Summer Tourist Idiocy. Oh, plus a night in Fucking Africa. In July. Join me, won't you?

Styles Music Bar
. Karaoke Professionals. Need I say more.
Stamcafe Torremolinos. One step more nonsensical: a Dutch karaoke bar in a Spanish beach resort town. Last night there was a Herring Party there, I kid you not.
Restaurante la Viña de Ale. Among the best-looking things I could find, which is not saying anything.
VD REVIEW: Not very good.
El Gato Lounge. Looks semi-horrible but Yelp and TripAdvisor reviews are positively glowing. From breakfast to late-night. VD REVIEW: Much better, should have eaten here the night before. 

Horno San Buenaventura. "Best coffee in town." Service maybe not so much. Breakfast. Wildly mixed reviews.
Confiteria La Campana. Better reviews. Cakes and coffee.
Casa Morales. 160 years old and highly unfancy.
Bodega Santa Cruz/Las Columnas. Seems like another very reliable "traditional" option.....very popular. VD REVIEW: OK, fast, friendly, serving potato chips with everything gets old very fast. 
Bodeguita Romero. Consistently great reviews, sounds like I have to try the pringá montaditos, but they are also known for vegetarian stuff (review). VD REVIEW: Our favorite lunch of the trip I think. 
Enrique Becerra
. Kind of a step in a more modern direction, in very traditional surroundings. Reviews are kind of mixed about whether it's a tourist trap or not. Maybe worth one bite (review). VD REVIEW: We went for a drink and a glass of ajo bianco, and it was great, but the dinner menu's prices were crazy expensive. 
Eslava. Even though they have something called "fried blood with onions" on the menu, they're considered "vegetarian friendly". The bar side of things seems like the doable "fancy" option in town, the only potential downside being that it's literally ranked #2 out of 1,726 retaurants in Sevilla on TripAdvisor (review).
La Azotea. Also "vegetarian friendly", in case Eslava doesn't work out. Looks a tiiiiiny bit ehhhh not cosy enough (review).
Dulcería Manu Jara. Across the river near the flamenco bars, this is the location for sweet stuff, check hours.
La Chunga Tapas y Platos. Near one of the bridges that head over the river, great reviews here and here. VD REVIEW: Fun, frantic, and great food. 
Duo Tapas.  "Vegetarian friendly", up near the Alameda, great reviews here and here.

Hotel Continental. This explains a little. This too.
Rif Kerabdani. Vegetarian Moroccan food near the Casbah and Hotel Continental. Assuming we make it to the bnb, "more adventure" is not really the goal at that point. VD REVIEW: Just about the sweetest restaurant service ever, but the food was extremely unexciting. I would look for somewhere else. 

El Central Restaurante & Cervecería & Tapería
Breakfast, lunch, dinner, bodega.
Los Quatro GatosGood reviews, not totally my taste stylistically, whatever that means.
Bar Abaceria La OficinaLooks "quirky" but/and close to the bnb. 
El Jardin del Califa. Fancy sit-down Moroccan in a hotel, but despite all that, great reviews. Looks somehow cool temperature-wise.



week 23.



Prepare for an extreme lack of thrilling content, but this needs to be written down for repeatability's sake.


ravioli dough and/or lasagna filling.

2 cups flour
3 eggs
1 tsp salt
water if necessary to combine

Combine flour and salt. Add eggs, work them in with a fork or dough hook of a mixer. Add water if necessary to make this a dough. Form into a ball and knead until smooth. Cover with plastic and let rest for at least 30 minutes, in the fridge is fine. Then roll it out and run through a pasta machine.

250g ricotta
a healthy pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
1 cup parmigiano-reggiano
1/2 egg, beaten