2.12.25

how many times do you live.

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lumache with blue cheese, roasted grapes, and sage butter. 
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2 handfuls seedless red grapes
olive oil 
flaky salt

8 sage leaves
2 tbsp salted butter

50g mascarpone or cream cheese
75g blue cheese
(these cheese amounts are approximate, you want a sauce that mostly tastes like salty blue cheese but is also creamy like mac and cheese)

zest and juice of one lemon
2 tbsp hazelnuts, skinned and coarsely crushed 

1 Belgian endive, coarsely chopped
1 small handful arugula

200g dried lumache rigate (medium-sided ribbed macaroni)

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Roast grapes for 20 minutes at 220, turning halfway through and checking often to make sure nothing's burning. Saute sage leaves in butter on low heat for 10 minutes, careful not to burn the butter. Nutty brown butter is OK. 

Melt cheeses in a small saucepan. Add lemon zest and juice and hazelnuts to melted cheeses, salt to taste. If sauce is a little thick you can add some pasta water during the next step. Cook pasta.  

Toss the pasta in the cheese/nut/lemon sauce, add sage butter, ladle into plates and garnish with grapes, arugula and endive. Sprinkle with flaky salt and freshly cracked black pepper.

Serves 2.

20.11.25

street life.

I just listened to someone outside on the street try to open a bag of Doritos for roughly 90 seconds. I looked outside after the first 30 seconds because the clarity of the sound itself was so incongruous, like why can I hear that like it's happening inside my room and yet I do not have a bag of Doritos. Weirdly, thankfully, I could not hear the triumphant crunches afterwards, but also, if it took you that long to open a bag of Doritos, wouldn't you just Tasmanian Devil fistfuls of that shit for the world to hear. 

24.9.25

how to ruin a night on earth.

 Become convinced that you've lost your wallet. 

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14.9.25

regrets, i've had a few.

 But let's focus on the small lessons first. 

1) If you have a good bakery in your neighborhood, support them. Don't buy shit nutritionless crap that was made 45 minutes away in an industrial warehouse or factory. If you have a good anything in your neighborhood that's owned and operated by people you can actually see and talk to and the vibe is good, spend your money there. 

2) Stop trying to impress or prove yourself to people you just met. None of the people you admire/respect did this when you met them. 

3) The sooner you can get comfortable with silence and inactivity, the better. Filling up your mind with serotonin-jacking distractions will not lead you anywhere, unless that distraction is a creative endeavor, in which case you are one of the luckiest kind of people there is. 

4) There is nothing inherently wrong with routine, for many things this is the only way they can be done. Baking bread, exercise, sobriety, for example. 

5) Work on your flexibility, like yesterday. 

6) If you have never made your own croissant and egg sandwich at home with a great croissant from your local non-industrial bakery, you are missing out on something important. 

7) If you have stage fright or performance anxiety, invest some time in getting over it at the earliest age possible. Being afraid of expressing yourself in front of other people is not going to lead to a more satisfying life. 

8) Addiction is difficult. Try to cut yourself some slack if you are one of the afflicted. 

9) Learn how to give up on things, unless your tendency is to give up on everything, then learn how not to. 

10) Accept that the end is coming, and live your life accordingly. 

13.8.25

self-archival.

like the song says: 

As if i needed a reminder
ohhh that I do only what i wanna
So I go through with this

I knew happiness when I saw it

https://youtu.be/weL8HTY1NJU?si=fd7NXIwFaL-Xsl4V&t=235

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23.7.25

archivaris.

You know what's a really weird way to get to know somebody? 

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1.6.25

kimchi.















I think I made half of this last time, it was perfect.


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green cabbage kimchi.

INGREDIENTS
1 about 3.5 lb (1.5 kg) green cabbage
6 tbsp Korean coarse sea salt divided
2 cup (480 ml) water
1/2 - 1 cup (120 -240 mll) extra water for kimchi brine

1/2 small onion diced
4 cloves garlic
1/2 inch piece ginger chopped
3 tbsp vegetarian fish sauce
2 tbsp cooked white rice 
1 red apple, cored (optional?)
2 tbsp water
4 fresh red chili diced, optional
7 tbsp Korean chili flakes (gochugaru)
1 tbsp sugar
3 green onion chopped

METHOD
Cut and dice the cabbage into 1-1/2 inch pieces. Try to separate the cabbage layers. Rinse them well and place them in a large mixing bowl.

Mix 4 tablespoons of salt with 2 cups of water until the salt dissolves. Pour it over the cabbage and toss well. Sprinkle the remaining salt on top, pressing down gently. Let the cabbage soak for 1 hour, turning it once halfway through.

To make the kimchi paste, combine the onion, garlic, ginger, apple, fish sauce, cooked rice, and about 2 tablespoons of water in a blender to help the blades run smoothly. Puree them until very smooth. Add the fresh chili and pulse a few times to finely process the chili but not pureed completely. Pour the mixture in a bowl and add the gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) and sugar; mix well.

Once the cabbage is wilted, rinse it twice and drain well. Place it in a large mixing bowl, add the green onion and kimchi paste, and, wearing plastic kitchen gloves, toss everything together to coat the cabbage evenly with the seasoning.

Transfer the kimchi to an airtight container. Pour the extra 1/2 to 1 cup of water into the kimchi mixing bowl, swirl it around to collect any remaining kimchi paste, and then pour it back over the kimchi.

Cover the kimchi with the lid and let it sit on a counter for 1 day and then, store in the refrigerator for 3-4 more days for better fermentation.

25.5.25

day six.

Hey, we're doing it.

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15.5.25

bitchin confidential, chapter 2.

The nameplate on the kitchen door said "Magazijn", which basically means "Office" or "Stockroom" in Dutch, and yep that's what it is most like: it is most definitely not anything like a kitchen.

What it is most like is a depressingly fluorescent-lit office cubicle where someone should be seated in a not-quite-comfortable swivel chair, stapling printed-out expense reports or purchase orders into 3-ring binders a la 1995, making several unnecessary phone calls and wishing they were somewhere, anywhere else. 

There is one rectangular window about the size of a large cutting board, and it looks out on the leafy green thoroughfare of Pieterburen's west end, the Hoofdstraat. Since there are only 3 other storefronts in town and we are the last business on this side of the street, this window view has never featured anything other than backpack-wearing tourists loping blandly towards the "center of town": they'd somehow found a place to park and were now on the prowl for something to do/eat/drink. During the summer months this window is also how we let all the flying/stinging insects in. 

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One of our worst shifts ever was the day a busload of tourists showed up unexpectedly at around 11:45, forty cranky old people in various stages of disappointment/evolution/potential immobility, all shuffling and stumbling with excruciating slowness through our decidedly obstacle-laden dining room and all needing something to eat within 30 minutes before their bus left again.

There was absolutely never any fucking way this was going to happen. In our defense, I've been to very few cafés in this country where this had any chance of fucking happening at all, more due to the nature of Dutch hospitality/restaurant service than anything having to do with actual food, IYKYK.

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But I digress. I don't remember exactly what was on the menu the day the busload of tourists showed up except for our tomato fennel soup, which I remember only because one diner said upon hearing what the soup of the day was, nearly spitting with incredulity, "Tomato? And......fennel? Together????????????????" 

We were not set up for serving a horde of incredulous, spitting people without advance notice. Inside we could seat 22 credulous, non-spitting people comfortably, and if the weather was nice you could probably add 12 or 14 to that, and at this point in our arc I think we were only printing out 5 or 6 menus a day so as not to be wasting a shitload of paper. So, already, a logistic snafu (by the time we called it quits these seats were filled from 11:30 to 14:30 most days, but at the point in our arc when the busload showed up we were still pretty empty before noon).

Then, the menu itself, the logic of which is perhaps best explained by continuing to describe the kitchen. The longest side of the kitchen, where the window is, features a stainless steel countertop with two or three €59 Ikea portable induction burners, 2 or 3 because sometimes one of them was moved to the opposite wall to create a "soup station". You could potentially have all 3 burners going at the same time, but then you had to keep them all below "setting 7" or a fuse would blow and you'd have to go out into the dining room to reset it. 

I had never successfully used an induction stovetop before, and after this experience I no longer think of cooking in terms of low, medium, or high heat; I think of setting 1 (almost nothing happens); setting 4 (active, reliable medium heat cooking), setting 9 (do not take your eye off the pan because what happens heat-wise here is both wildly variable and barely comprehensible, very difficult to predict the outcome). At a certain point we added a tosti press to the arsenal which kind of mostly worked ok but was a hit on  counter space and visual processing cycles so it eventually had to be relocated out into the front of house, more on this later. 

The last important piece of equipment in the office/kitchen is an upright baker's oven almost 2 meters tall and able to realistically hold a maximum of five cakes if you were to use a creative mix of round and loaf pans. Four if you're only using round springforms. 

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The upshot of all this moaning about kitchen size/layout/equipment is that, operating at peak capacity, you could still really only be firing a maximum of 3 pans' worth of dishes at any one time. Some could be executed with more than one dish to a pan, so, for example 6 tostis (8 if you include the tosti press). Realistically 3 pav bhajis, possibly 6 if things were going well (toasting the buttered buns correctly only worked on a griddle, not in the oven). At a certain point we added pancakes to the menu and, while people loved them and they were a very handy solution to things like gluten-free diets and children's meals, they could also absolutely bring the kitchen to its knees. 

Anyone who has ever failed to make a pancake can probably immediately understand why. Pancakes need a predictably, consistently hot cooking surface. In order to get our pancakes coming out of the kitchen looking and feeling beautiful, the pan needed to be preheated for 3 minutes at setting 5. 

So, a table of 4 comes in, two parents and two kids, the parents order something "easy" like quiche and a tosti and soup, and the kids order pancakes (for this example let's say sweet ones, because the savory ones usually required another burner to warm up the fillings, and kids would almost always have sweet ones anyway).

Burner 1: soup with bread.
Burner 2: pancake 1.
Burner 3: pancake 2.
Tosti press: tosti. 


Burners 2 and 3 each take 3 minutes to heat up, then 2 minutes to cook each pancake. 
Tostis took around 10 minutes. 
Quiche/galettes took 10 minutes in the baker's oven. 
Salad for the quiche would be prepped/tossed while the quiche was in the oven. 

This particular order could go OK! But also this is just one table of 4 and already the kitchen is kind of disabled for 15 minutes. Yes more quiches and soup could be served, but anything that required contact with a hot cooking surface was on hold until these first orders could be sent out. 

So, like the nightmare scenario for any lunch service was two equally-sized parties arriving at 11:45. If one of them was a table full of women this could be survivable because that table would mostly be soup and quiche, sorry for the generalization ladiesss but my experience has shown this to be mostly true. If, however, there were any men or kids at the table, there was no telling what would happen, order wise. Also, by 11:45 we generally hadn't sent any lunch orders out yet, so if there were kinks in the day's lunch prep to be discovered, they generally hadn't been discovered yet. And then if you're already in the weeds by 12 noon it's going to be a looooonnnnng fucking lunch.

We served a lot of tartines to try to address these logistical problems: the bread could be toasted either in the oven or a toaster, and the fillings/toppings for toasts were primarily room-temperature or could be heated quickly in a small sauté pan that didn't really obstruct any signal path for anything else. But then this is a lot of task switching for the inexperienced restaurant cook: soup with bread; pancake, pancake, tosti, tosti, toast, toast filling/topping, put 4 pieces of quiche in the oven, make/dress 4 salads (which I ratcheted up the complexity on by using a lot of freshly cut fruit and herbs that couldn't be pre-cut and also making stupidly small batches of homemade dressing). Five different cooking methods with different timers and temperatures, etc. Maximum output! But this math kind of means that the chef could be making 12 or so dishes at once, all in the space of a large hotel bathroom. 

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The busful of old tourists were, as you might imagine, not especially empathetic to our plight. They didn't care that our (scarce!) menu was very small because there was no grocery store in town and we were striving to be a waste-free vegetarian cafe at the end of the world and our kitchen was in a broom closet. They just wanted something familiar to eat. I'm sure almost none of them wanted to be at a vegetarian cafe, and most of them would've preferred the food at a highway gas station, at least there would've been familiar options. Our Google Reviews rating (4.9/5.0!) survived that day only because none of those customers knew what a Google Review was.

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P.S: We also had no garbage service! So at the end of the night after either prepping for the next day and/or processing all of our leftovers, then cleaning, we would throw our bag of garbage into the back of Marge the Cargo Van and bring it home with us. And all of our recyclables. 

18.3.25

thanksgiving.

Whaaat a fukken life: a warm cozy apartment, 3 laptops, 2 phones, legal weed, prescription sleep aids, a giant industrial fan from the 50s, homemade vegan 'nduja, mozzarella, hot water, plumbing, homemade kimchi, a great mattress, streaming media, ok one actual mouse, but really, what are we complaining about. We being me. 

'nduja.

75g home-dried tomatoes

or just sun-dried tomatoes, which NO ONE WANTS TO HEAR but bear with me: if they're not herbed or treated in anyway or packed in oil this can still be a good ingredient, you just want 100% unfuckedwith dried tomatoes

1/4 cup hot water

2 garlic cloves
1 tsp smoked paprika
2 tsp gochugaru
1 tsp crushed dried red pepper, the hot kind
1 tsp fennel seed or possibly 1.5 tsp
1 tsp coarse sea salt

Blend to a chunky spread. I threw a dried apricot in there the last time and it might have made a positive difference in terms of structure and sweetness. I also made a 'nduja butter out of it which is, as you can imagine, better. 


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20.2.25

unfucktheworld.

Seems like I can never really find the right time to send this to anyone.