2.12.25

how many times do you live.

The most adult mac and cheese possible. 

+++

sage and blue cheese mac + cheese with hazelnuts and red grapes.

INGREDIENTS
2 handfuls seedless red grapes

olive oil 
flaky salt

8 sage leaves
2 tbsp salted butter

50g mascarpone or cream cheese
75g blue cheese
(these cheese amounts are approximate, you want a sauce that mostly tastes like salty blue cheese but is also creamy like mac and cheese)

zest and juice of one lemon
2 tbsp hazelnuts, skinned and coarsely crushed 

1 Belgian endive, coarsely chopped
1 small handful arugula

200g dried lumache rigate (medium-sided ribbed macaroni)

+++

METHOD
Roast grapes for 20 minutes at 220, turning halfway through and checking often to make sure nothing's burning. Sauté sage leaves in butter on low heat for 10 minutes, careful not to burn the butter. Nutty brown butter is OK. 

Melt cheeses in a small saucepan. Add lemon zest and juice and hazelnuts to melted cheeses, salt to taste. If sauce is a little thick you can add some pasta water during the next step. Cook pasta.  

Toss the pasta in the cheese/nut/lemon sauce, add sage butter, ladle into plates and garnish with grapes, arugula and endive. Sprinkle with flaky salt and freshly cracked black pepper.

Serves 2.

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20.11.25

street life.

I just listened to someone outside on the street try to open a bag of Doritos for roughly 90 seconds. I looked outside after the first 30 seconds because the clarity of the sound itself was so incongruous, like why can I hear that like it's happening inside my room and yet I do not have a bag of Doritos. Weirdly, thankfully, I could not hear the triumphant crunches afterwards, but also, if it took you that long to open a bag of Doritos, wouldn't you just Tasmanian Devil fistfuls of that shit for the world to hear. 

24.9.25

how to ruin a night on earth.

 Become convinced that you've lost your wallet. 

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14.9.25

regrets, i've had a few.

 But let's focus on the small lessons first. 

1) If you have a good bakery in your neighborhood, support them. Don't buy shit nutritionless crap that was made 45 minutes away in an industrial warehouse or factory. If you have a good anything in your neighborhood that's owned and operated by people you can actually see and talk to and the vibe is good, spend your money there. 

2) Stop trying to impress or prove yourself to people you just met. None of the people you admire/respect did this when you met them. 

3) The sooner you can get comfortable with silence and inactivity, the better. Filling up your mind with serotonin-jacking distractions will not lead you anywhere, unless that distraction is a creative endeavor, in which case you are one of the luckiest kind of people there is. 

4) There is nothing inherently wrong with routine, for many things this is the only way they can be done. Baking bread, exercise, sobriety, for example. 

5) Work on your flexibility, like yesterday. 

6) If you have never made your own croissant and egg sandwich at home with a great croissant from your local non-industrial bakery, you are missing out on something important. 

7) If you have stage fright or performance anxiety, invest some time in getting over it at the earliest age possible. Being afraid of expressing yourself in front of other people is not going to lead to a more satisfying life. 

8) Addiction is difficult. Try to cut yourself some slack if you are one of the afflicted. 

9) Learn how to give up on things, unless your tendency is to give up on everything, then learn how not to. 

10) Accept that the end is coming, and live your life accordingly. 

13.8.25

self-archival.

like the song says: 

As if i needed a reminder
ohhh that I do only what i wanna
So I go through with this

I knew happiness when I saw it

https://youtu.be/weL8HTY1NJU?si=fd7NXIwFaL-Xsl4V&t=235

+++

23.7.25

archivaris.

You know what's a really weird way to get to know somebody? 

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1.6.25

kimchi.















I think I made half of this last time, it was perfect.


+++

green cabbage kimchi.

INGREDIENTS
1 about 3.5 lb (1.5 kg) green cabbage
6 tbsp Korean coarse sea salt divided
2 cup (480 ml) water
1/2 - 1 cup (120 -240 mll) extra water for kimchi brine

1/2 small onion diced
4 cloves garlic
1/2 inch piece ginger chopped
3 tbsp vegetarian fish sauce
2 tbsp cooked white rice 
1 red apple, cored (optional?)
2 tbsp water
4 fresh red chili diced, optional
7 tbsp Korean chili flakes (gochugaru)
1 tbsp sugar
3 green onion chopped

METHOD
Cut and dice the cabbage into 1-1/2 inch pieces. Try to separate the cabbage layers. Rinse them well and place them in a large mixing bowl.

Mix 4 tablespoons of salt with 2 cups of water until the salt dissolves. Pour it over the cabbage and toss well. Sprinkle the remaining salt on top, pressing down gently. Let the cabbage soak for 1 hour, turning it once halfway through.

To make the kimchi paste, combine the onion, garlic, ginger, apple, fish sauce, cooked rice, and about 2 tablespoons of water in a blender to help the blades run smoothly. Puree them until very smooth. Add the fresh chili and pulse a few times to finely process the chili but not pureed completely. Pour the mixture in a bowl and add the gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) and sugar; mix well.

Once the cabbage is wilted, rinse it twice and drain well. Place it in a large mixing bowl, add the green onion and kimchi paste, and, wearing plastic kitchen gloves, toss everything together to coat the cabbage evenly with the seasoning.

Transfer the kimchi to an airtight container. Pour the extra 1/2 to 1 cup of water into the kimchi mixing bowl, swirl it around to collect any remaining kimchi paste, and then pour it back over the kimchi.

Cover the kimchi with the lid and let it sit on a counter for 1 day and then, store in the refrigerator for 3-4 more days for better fermentation.

25.5.25

day six.

Hey, we're doing it.

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15.5.25

bitchin confidential, chapter 2.

The nameplate on the kitchen door said "Magazijn", which basically means "Office" or "Stockroom" in Dutch, and yep that's what it is most like: it is most definitely not anything like a kitchen.

What it is most like is a depressingly fluorescent-lit office cubicle where someone should be seated in a not-quite-comfortable swivel chair, stapling printed-out expense reports or purchase orders into 3-ring binders a la 1995, making several unnecessary phone calls and wishing they were somewhere, anywhere else. 

There is one rectangular window about the size of a large cutting board, and it looks out on the leafy green thoroughfare of Pieterburen's west end, the Hoofdstraat. Since there are only 3 other storefronts in town and we are the last business on this side of the street, this window view has never featured anything other than backpack-wearing tourists loping blandly towards the "center of town": they'd somehow found a place to park and were now on the prowl for something to do/eat/drink. During the summer months this window is also how we let all the flying/stinging insects in. 

+++

One of our worst shifts ever was the day a busload of tourists showed up unexpectedly at around 11:45, forty cranky old people in various stages of disappointment/evolution/potential immobility, all shuffling and stumbling with excruciating slowness through our decidedly obstacle-laden dining room and all needing something to eat within 30 minutes before their bus left again.

There was absolutely never any fucking way this was going to happen. In our defense, I've been to very few cafés in this country where this had any chance of fucking happening at all, more due to the nature of Dutch hospitality/restaurant service than anything having to do with actual food, IYKYK.

+++

But I digress. I don't remember exactly what was on the menu the day the busload of tourists showed up except for our tomato fennel soup, which I remember only because one diner said upon hearing what the soup of the day was, nearly spitting with incredulity, "Tomato? And......fennel? Together????????????????" 

We were not set up for serving a horde of incredulous, spitting people without advance notice. Inside we could seat 22 credulous, non-spitting people comfortably, and if the weather was nice you could probably add 12 or 14 to that, and at this point in our arc I think we were only printing out 5 or 6 menus a day so as not to be wasting a shitload of paper. So, already, a logistic snafu (by the time we called it quits these seats were filled from 11:30 to 14:30 most days, but at the point in our arc when the busload showed up we were still pretty empty before noon).

Then, the menu itself, the logic of which is perhaps best explained by continuing to describe the kitchen. The longest side of the kitchen, where the window is, features a stainless steel countertop with two or three €59 Ikea portable induction burners, 2 or 3 because sometimes one of them was moved to the opposite wall to create a "soup station". You could potentially have all 3 burners going at the same time, but then you had to keep them all below "setting 7" or a fuse would blow and you'd have to go out into the dining room to reset it. 

I had never successfully used an induction stovetop before, and after this experience I no longer think of cooking in terms of low, medium, or high heat; I think of setting 1 (almost nothing happens); setting 4 (active, reliable medium heat cooking), setting 9 (do not take your eye off the pan because what happens heat-wise here is both wildly variable and barely comprehensible, very difficult to predict the outcome). At a certain point we added a tosti press to the arsenal which kind of mostly worked ok but was a hit on  counter space and visual processing cycles so it eventually had to be relocated out into the front of house, more on this later. 

The last important piece of equipment in the office/kitchen is an upright baker's oven almost 2 meters tall and able to realistically hold a maximum of five cakes if you were to use a creative mix of round and loaf pans. Four if you're only using round springforms. 

+++

The upshot of all this moaning about kitchen size/layout/equipment is that, operating at peak capacity, you could still really only be firing a maximum of 3 pans' worth of dishes at any one time. Some could be executed with more than one dish to a pan, so, for example 6 tostis (8 if you include the tosti press). Realistically 3 pav bhajis, possibly 6 if things were going well (toasting the buttered buns correctly only worked on a griddle, not in the oven). At a certain point we added pancakes to the menu and, while people loved them and they were a very handy solution to things like gluten-free diets and children's meals, they could also absolutely bring the kitchen to its knees. 

Anyone who has ever failed to make a pancake can probably immediately understand why. Pancakes need a predictably, consistently hot cooking surface. In order to get our pancakes coming out of the kitchen looking and feeling beautiful, the pan needed to be preheated for 3 minutes at setting 5. 

So, a table of 4 comes in, two parents and two kids, the parents order something "easy" like quiche and a tosti and soup, and the kids order pancakes (for this example let's say sweet ones, because the savory ones usually required another burner to warm up the fillings, and kids would almost always have sweet ones anyway).

Burner 1: soup with bread.
Burner 2: pancake 1.
Burner 3: pancake 2.
Tosti press: tosti. 


Burners 2 and 3 each take 3 minutes to heat up, then 2 minutes to cook each pancake. 
Tostis took around 10 minutes. 
Quiche/galettes took 10 minutes in the baker's oven. 
Salad for the quiche would be prepped/tossed while the quiche was in the oven. 

This particular order could go OK! But also this is just one table of 4 and already the kitchen is kind of disabled for 15 minutes. Yes more quiches and soup could be served, but anything that required contact with a hot cooking surface was on hold until these first orders could be sent out. 

So, like the nightmare scenario for any lunch service was two equally-sized parties arriving at 11:45. If one of them was a table full of women this could be survivable because that table would mostly be soup and quiche, sorry for the generalization ladiesss but my experience has shown this to be mostly true. If, however, there were any men or kids at the table, there was no telling what would happen, order wise. Also, by 11:45 we generally hadn't sent any lunch orders out yet, so if there were kinks in the day's lunch prep to be discovered, they generally hadn't been discovered yet. And then if you're already in the weeds by 12 noon it's going to be a looooonnnnng fucking lunch.

We served a lot of tartines to try to address these logistical problems: the bread could be toasted either in the oven or a toaster, and the fillings/toppings for toasts were primarily room-temperature or could be heated quickly in a small sauté pan that didn't really obstruct any signal path for anything else. But then this is a lot of task switching for the inexperienced restaurant cook: soup with bread; pancake, pancake, tosti, tosti, toast, toast filling/topping, put 4 pieces of quiche in the oven, make/dress 4 salads (which I ratcheted up the complexity on by using a lot of freshly cut fruit and herbs that couldn't be pre-cut and also making stupidly small batches of homemade dressing). Five different cooking methods with different timers and temperatures, etc. Maximum output! But this math kind of means that the chef could be making 12 or so dishes at once, all in the space of a large hotel bathroom. 

+++

The busful of old tourists were, as you might imagine, not especially empathetic to our plight. They didn't care that our (scarce!) menu was very small because there was no grocery store in town and we were striving to be a waste-free vegetarian cafe at the end of the world and our kitchen was in a broom closet. They just wanted something familiar to eat. I'm sure almost none of them wanted to be at a vegetarian cafe, and most of them would've preferred the food at a highway gas station, at least there would've been familiar options. Our Google Reviews rating (4.9/5.0!) survived that day only because none of those customers knew what a Google Review was.

+++

P.S: We also had no garbage service! So at the end of the night after either prepping for the next day and/or processing all of our leftovers, then cleaning, we would throw our bag of garbage into the back of Marge the Cargo Van and bring it home with us. And all of our recyclables. 

18.3.25

thanksgiving.

Whaaat a fukken life: a warm cozy apartment, 3 laptops, 2 phones, legal weed, prescription sleep aids, a giant industrial fan from the 50s, homemade vegan 'nduja, mozzarella, hot water, plumbing, homemade kimchi, a great mattress, streaming media, ok one actual mouse, but really, what are we complaining about. We being me. 

+++

'nduja.

75g home-dried tomatoes

or just sun-dried tomatoes, which NO ONE WANTS TO HEAR but bear with me: if they're not herbed or treated in anyway or packed in oil this can still be a good ingredient, you just want 100% unfuckedwith dried tomatoes

1/4 cup hot water

2 garlic cloves
1 tsp smoked paprika
2 tsp gochugaru
1 tsp crushed dried red pepper, the hot kind
1 tsp fennel seed or possibly 1.5 tsp
1 tsp coarse sea salt

Blend to a chunky spread. I threw a dried apricot in there the last time and it might have made a positive difference in terms of structure and sweetness. I also made a 'nduja butter out of it which is, as you can imagine, better. 


+++

20.2.25

unfucktheworld.

Seems like I can never really find the right time to send this to anyone. 

13.10.24

aaaaaaaaaaand we're back.

Editor's Note, Sept 2025: So much literally incredible bullshit has happened since this post that none of it is worth commenting on anymore.

+++

I'm sure we're probably not. But we ("we") have reached yet another breaking point in this finite yet far too long series of breaking points. What do we call a series of points again, a line? If a line is one-dimensional and has no depth, sounds about right. I guess a curve is also a line, but this is kind of my point: what is wrong with us? Why can we barely express a complete thought. "We". 

I don't even just mean "we" anymore, I think I mean the actual we, as in all of us. Certainly one problem can be called something like patiencelessness when it comes to finding solutions for things, very much like the patience I just ran out of while considering how to start talking about this. To myself. 

Let's start over with a couple of basic modern challenges that, when combined, can very easily create the illusion of an impenetrable, oceanic wall of doom, at least for this writer. Off of what passes for the top of my head these days: 

1) Dopamine, the "firehose of pleasure" that being online offers us, the constant buzz of harmless, idle consumption...addictive enough to impair us from being creative our own selves in any meaningful offline way, more on that in a bit.

1b) The satisfaction of knowing anything immediately. This is a subcategory of dopamine addiction that makes us unprecedentedly susceptible to new problems like reasonably realistic misinformation, see below.

2) The lowered bar to content creation means that "anyone" can create "compelling" content, instead of having to learn a skill that doesn't involve a phone and an app and some kind of AI...just download a free app that does everything for you. One result of which is that our content keeps getting more homogenous, because everyone is using the same or very similar tools; and said content is generally less complex and "more stupider," because that's the whole concept of these tools...requiring as little skill or intelligence as possible, the less the better.

2b) I think that unless your profession or serious creative outlet involves expressing complex thoughts to an audience of listeners or readers on an extremely regular basis, your ability to express yourself is probably undergoing some kind of atrophy, because all you do is consume other people's gradually stupider content.

3) The fact that getting offline is still a minority position at this point, and probably seems like a comparably "lonely" undertaking, although there's considerable evidence that our being online all the time is not making us less lonely at all. Point being, "how can anyone survive offline!?!?!??!"

4) The disillusionment of discovering that people are generally not as good or as smart as we once somehow thought they were, a position we originally arrived at through a simple lack of evidence to the contrary, combined wish wishful thinking/optimism. Now there is plennnnnty of evidence and no legitimate reason for optimism.

4b) The fucking plague of Comments sections and the resulting decline of polite conversation and general interpersonal etiquette. This is partially my fault. I helped put the internet in everyone's home, which hurts me almost every day. But before 1995, when your average Archie Bunker type used to watch the news and get angry about, well, anything at all, they used to just complain to their spouse if they were fortunate to have found someone insecure or stupid enough to tolerate their stunted worldview, or maybe they would complain about it to a like-minded colleague or two at the steel mill or the slaughterhouse or whatever, or hey probably even the advertising agency if we're talking about pre-Reaganite yuppies. But their circle of toxicity was limited by their lack of transmission technology and the fact that in person someone can knock your teeth down your throat if you say something offensive enough. Then computers happened, but you still needed to have some kind of intellectual horsepower to be able to post content, and access to consuming that content was still very limited. Turns out this was a better, saner model. 

5) The plague of misinformation. This is probably going to be the end of us, because: we're addicted to being online; it's making us stupider; the stupider we are, the more susceptible we are to misinformation. And the more evil among us are going to use this to get ahead of the less evil among us, because it's easy.  Combine this with our increasingly insatiable need to have the answer to any possible question at our fingertips and well buddy you've got yrself a veritable powderkeg of something. Sorry, still shaking off the atrophy. 

My dark dark habit of reading the conservative "news" site National Review revealed this strikingly un-selfaware tidbit today entitled "The Television Age Is Over": 

Television maintains certain presuppositions about authority, expertise, and credibility. Anthony Fauci’s Covid pronouncements, “51 former intelligence officials” declaring Hunter Biden’s laptop a Russian dupe, and “fact-checking” debate moderators are all natural products of a televisual culture. They assume certain things about the way information is produced, verified, delivered, and defended.

If televisual forces (network executives and anchors, newspaper editorial boards, etc.) seem more and more defensive, it is because they are now in the position of conducting rearguard actions against the digital culture that has overtaken them — and that operates on altogether different premises. Joe Rogan and Walter Cronkite occupy entirely different roles in their respective information economies. If the basic question of television news is: Who said it? Do I trust them?, the basic question of digital news is: How does it map onto my prior beliefs? How does it make me feel? Indeed, what constitutes “news” in each economy will be different. The salacious rumor is digital. Proclaiming it bunk is televisual.

They say this without any acknowledgement that this is a serious problem, it's "just the way it is now", breaking their arm patting themselves on the back for realizing "we're in a digital age now". OH ARE WE? 

ETA: This seems relevant.

30.5.24

tortillas' recipes.

Tortillas was Atlanta's greatest ever burrito restaurant if you ask me or anyone else who ever ate there. As previously discussed in these pages, I would schedule entire days around leaving work early so I could get to Tortillas, have a shrimp and potato burrito with half a bottle of green salsa and two beers and be asleep in bed by 5pm. Good times. 

Anyway, their beans were really something special, and I am placing the semi-apocryphal recipes here for safekeeping since they seem to be disappearing from the places I thought they were. 

+++

Tortillas Burrito Recipes
adapted from the Tortillas myspace page

Guacamole
Ingredients: Haas avocados, red chili powder, ground cumin, garlic powder, black pepper, salt, vinegar.
Process: Break up the avocados so that they are chunky

Add the spice mixture in this ratio: 6 parts red chili powder, 5 parts ground cumin, 2 parts garlic powder, 2 parts black pepper, 3 parts salt.

Add vinegar to taste, approx. 1 tbls. per avocado used

Add Red Rooster or Texas Pete hot sauce to taste., approx. 1.5 tsp. per avocado used

Green Sauce
Ingredients: 1 part canned tomatillos, 1 part canned jalapeño slices, fresh cilantro, fresh onion.
Process:
Drain the tomatillos
Combine with the jalapeños and their juices. (1 to 1 ratio of tomatillos to jalapeños)
Add diced onion and cilantro and blend in a food processor.  Use cilantro for coloring

Red Sauce
Ingredients: 4 parts canned tomatoes, 1 part canned jalapeños, chili powder, cumin, salt
Mix the tomatoes with the canned jalapeños and their juices
Add the spice mixture in this ratio: 5 parts chili powder, 4 parts cumin, 3 parts salt
Blend in a food processer until the desired texture.

Salsa Fresca
Ingredients: Tomatoes>Onion>Cilantro
Process: Combine and blend that stuff!

Beans (Black or Pinto)
Ingredients: dry beans, salt, chili powder, cumin, garlic powder, black pepper, vegetable oil (2 tbls. per lbs. of beans).

Do not presoak beans but do remove stones, etc.

In a pot, combine beans with 7 parts salt, 5 parts chili powder, 3 parts cumin, 2 parts garlic powder, 2 parts black pepper, and vegetable oil.

Cover beans with water (just above the level of the beans) and bring to a simmering boil.  Cook for 3 to 4 hours (less if using black beans).

Marinades
According to the “recipe”, the shrimp was covered in guacamole spice; the potatoes and tofu were marinated with the red spice.  The steak was marinated for a day using equal parts vinegar, water, corn oil, and red spice.  Red Rooster was usually added and sometimes the guacamole spice was swapped for red spice.

+++

Those are the internet notes. Here's my first attempt: 

+++

tortillas' beans.

900g dried brown beans
2 tsp fine salt
3 tsp chili powder (yeah, generic, would like to come up with a more specific instruction here)
3 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp onion powder
1 tsp garlic powder
2 tsp black peppercorns, freshly ground
2 tbsp olive oil 

Cook til tender, about 2 hours. 

+++

27.3.24

couple things.

Hi. I am "OK"!
Also, the thing I find myself coming here the most for is, invariably, this, so I'll put it at the top and strip it down to the infinitely-modifiable version I always use these days in my post-shrimp life: 

+++

baked risotto.

3 tbsp olive oil
3 shallots, or one medium onion of your choosing, chopped small
1 cup Arborio rice
3/4 cup dry white wine
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

up to 1 tsp salt, or possibly no salt, depending on saltiness of your broth
up to 1 cup grated parmigiano-reggiano (can also use pecorino romano sometimes)

garnishes: you choose. freshly cracked black pepper, butter, gormas, hot sauce, fresh herbs, pangrattato, furikake, etc.

METHOD
Heat oven to 190°C.

In a medium ovenproof saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring until translucent, 5 to 8 minutes. Add rice, and stir until grains are shiny and well coated with oil, about 2 minutes more. Add wine, and continue cooking and stirring until liquid is absorbed, 3 to 5 minutes.

Add stock, stir to combine. Cover saucepan; transfer to oven. Bake until almost all of the stock is absorbed, about 25 minutes. Take it out, check for doneness, it should still be barely inedible. Add cheese and return to oven. After 6-8 minutes, remove from oven, check salt level again and adjust if necessary. Serve immediately, topped with grated cheese and your choice of garnish.

Serves 4, sometimes less.

+++

9.10.23

bitchin confidential, chapter 1.

Presenting my only post from 2023.

+++

Friday morning. I walk in at 08:06 and it's already clear that things have gone wrong, even before anyone else has been here today. Our main supplier delivers late Thursday night, usually around 22:00 (+/- an hour) and/but somehow cannot tell us in advance when they are unable to deliver any part of our order. 

Clearly, there are technological challenges. Their website only started to feature photos of their products a couple of months ago (it's 2023), it used to just basically be an enormous spreadsheet with a Submit button, so you'd have to select things like "15107 ACTIE Aard Alouette Vastk Aardappel 1kg", click Submit and hope for the best. 

Anyway: after too many Thursday nights waiting at the cafe for them to show up (neurotically checking the clock the whole time because we have to go to bed so we can get up early Friday and cook) we now leave them a key under the zinc flowerpot next to the back door so they can let themselves in and out. I do wish we also had a security camera back there so we could have some Instagrammable therapeutic times watching the delivery guy battle his way down the densely overgrown and rustic (unpredictable) garden path with an overloaded hand truck in the pitch black darkness. Thankless job, meet thankless job.  

So if the upside of this arrangement is a possible extra hour or two of sleep, the downside of not being there for this delivery is that we don't find out until Friday morning what parts of the weekend's menu are fucked (I guess if we found out Thursday night we probably would lose those extra hours' sleep anyway). 

"Choose another supplier". There simply isn't one, not that delivers where we are. Nobody delivers anything where we are except for the mailman. Mailperson. Mail carrier. You can't even order a pizza. 

+++

We have dinner for 20 on Saturday and lunch reservations all day Saturday, and suddenly we don't have red wine, and we don't have buckwheat flour. One of those things might seem way more important than the other, but buckwheat pancakes have become a significant component of our lunch menu, and without them I can already hear the parents complaining that there's nothing on the menu for kids, which means that I'll probably be getting off-menu requests all day for which there is no standard presentation ("a cheese sandwich for table 6 please", "what does that mean", "you know, a piece of buttered bread with thinly sliced cheese on it", "[threat level rising] which bread, daan's or saskia's? just one piece? whole or in halves? toasted, or not", "I don't know, just whatever" "mmm, no: if i make this and you come in here to pick it up and then ask me to remake it i will kill both of us" "[brief pause] ok, saskia's, whole, and not?", "how old is the kid?" "6?" "ok got it  [waits a moment, then jabs paring knife into temple]").

(And why not just use another flour? Three things: gluten, veganness, and induction. Making pancakes on an induction burner is an inexact science [or a very very exact science: once you have a successful formula, changing any of the input variables in the slightest produces unpredictable results]: out of necessity we tried a different brand of buckwheat flour last Sunday, and one child ended up in bitter, bitter tears b/c her tablemates had their hot non-pancake food while the cook was in the kitchen silently screaming and hurling yet another failed pancake attempt against the wall. The biggest bug/feature is that the recipe is three ingredients: oat milk, buckwheat flour, and salt. It's, frankly, genius. But, having now tried a few different brands of buckwheat, all with varying results, I can say that the only thing you can do to mostly normalize the variation is to let your batter hydrate for 20 minutes, meaning just let it sit there after it's all mixed together. But yeah bottom line: predictable pancakes are only doable with this one recipe and this one buckwheat flour).

So, after figuring out what has showed up, and what it actually is (for example the crate of eggplant we ordered for caponata is comprised of tiny purple eggplants that are about as long as, appropriately enough, my middle finger. They are super cute! But their tinyness means it'll take at least twice as long to trim and clean them as usual, and the many many red onions we need for Saturday dinner are also unhelpfully tiny, meaning the same old sad story: more prep time and more waste), it's now 09:10 and i haven't started cooking yet. Instead I am calculating whether or not we have time to solve our wine/buckwheat problems: the nearest grocery store is a few towns over, about an 11 minute drive (one-way), and while they will definitely have some crappy red wine, the probability that they will have buckwheat flour is extremely extremely low. 

I mean they could, but given that I have 3 cakes, a soup, and two lunch specials to prep before 12:00 I don't have 22 minutes to find out that they don't, so I mentally 86 the pancakes, put on me apron, and enter the kitchen.

"Kitchen".

24.10.22

the tree was inside it all along, part 3.

Installment 3 of: just to be clear, because I used to hate it when I would find a blog that would talk about addiction struggles and then the blogger would disappear for two years: today is 993 days (minus 2) without alcohol.

31.8.22

ghost kitchen.

Yeah. Jotting this here because I can't find it online anywhere. 
The idea is that I've been baking with aromatics a lot lately, and these two Paula Wolfert variations seem like an interesting thing to add to a cake in place of "2 tbsp rum" or other alcohol. You can also flip the proportions of orange blossom water and Armagnac.

+++

basque aromatic mixture.

2 tbsp orange blossom water
2 tbsp anisette (not pastis)
2 tbsp dark rum
50 ml Armagnac
1 tsp almond extract
1 strip lemon peel

Combine. 



dill + peanut.

3 large aubergines (1.2kg)
some neutral oil
coarse salt

4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 long red chilli, very finely chopped
2cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated

zest of one lemon
1/2 cup toasted coconut
2 tbsp tomato paste
2 tbsp tamarind paste
1 tbsp soft brown sugar, or more to taste
1 tsp ground cumin
¾ tsp ground turmeric

100g delicious peanuts, either pre-roasted and salted or you-roasted and salted
100g crunchy peanut butter

water to thin
salt and sugar and lemon juice to taste

Fried onions
Fresh herbs – a handful each of mint, coriander and dill, all chopped
Steamed rice and/or salad

8.5.22

dose.

1500mg turmeric
1 cod liver 

12.4.22

u n f e s t i v e.

"Ever stop and think about how many people you've already seen for the last time?" Actually yes, I do/have, and it's not really the worst thought of all time. How many still-living people in your life do you actually need to see again? I think my number is "less than 10". 

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